Denver Decorative Concrete & Custom MasonryHow do I correctly pour a concrete patio against a house.?
The problem is a building inspector said if I pour the patio at 1st floor level (no step) I would be pouring against the wood sill plate and it could rot and possibly attract termites. He offered no help in resolving this issue.
Build a frame or insert a divider (the almost-cloth-like stuff that goes between sidewalk blocks)
Like the01animal says – expansion joint material
go to building supply and get expansion joint. that is the name and they’ll know what it is. place that against house and pour your patio.
The best thing to do and it’s the code in VA , is to put aluminum coil in between the wood and the concrete.
I would advise locating a vinyl siding company and getting them to break some scraps that they’ve laying around about an inch much higher than the concrete will be poured and as far out from the house as the scraps will go. If you are pouring 4 have them break it 5 high.
As you install the metal, shoot some silicone caulking behind it. Just nail it with roofing tacks enough to hold it until the concrete is poured. I always wait until the last thing, just before I pour the concrete because the weight of it will spread out the silicone a lot better than any other way.
If you look you should be able to find someone with a color at least close to the same color as your home. If not, go for an abstract color. Maybe a color that matches some trim on the house.
Send me an email if I can help any more.
At least give me the best answer because it’s the best you’ll get, LOL.
wow, 2 thumbs down for the best answer…i have used homosote expansion joint and i have used coil stock…coil stock is the best choice in my opinion…even if you poured against the sill plate and ran a bead of concrete caulk along the seam when it was set it would be ok…there should be enough slope that water shouldnt be that much of an issue…most inspectors dont have a clue anyway…
depends on what you’re doing…. A patio with no structure on top would only need a wooden
( treated for ground contact – green ) joint – one x 4.
If you’re adding a foundation, you may drill & epoxy rebar dowells so the ne is attached to the old & termite treat the ground where they meet. This connection may just be simple or have beams next to & under the existing foundation ( engineer will determine ) . He is right, most inspector are idiots.
Not only do you want to not make the wood rot but you also need to make any termite entry visible.
The best way is to have the slab end about one hundred mm (4 inches) back from the wood and bridge this gap for a walking surface with a metal grill like you get over a drain. Plumbing supply places will sell you these in nice lengths. That way your pest manager can both inspect simply and easily re-apply chemical without drilling the slab. AND your wood will not rot before your eyes.